The shrimp with homemade fettuccini and chef’s surprise sauce is a sublime treat at Stefania’s. Photo by John Bloodsworth

Don’t tell Stefania Baldesarelli that you can’t repeat the past.

The tenacious restaurateur has pulled an haute cuisine Houdini with the opening of her latest creation, Stefania’s Country Italian. The legendary Nona’s that once produced palatable pleasures on N. St. Mary’s strip may have served its last platter of pasta in 1993, but an amazing reincarnation has taken place at the new Stefania’s.

Fond memories of noisy nights, frenetic jazz, and hearty Italian cuisine prepared in an open kitchen serendipitously surfaced as I recently dined with my wife Jamie at Stefania’s on San Pedro. We spent many a night at Nona’s in the 1980s dining with friends over bowls of al dente pasta laden with delicious homemade sauces, while toasting our youth with too many bottles of blush wine.

Stefania’s has that same eclectic exuberance exhibited at the late Nona’s. Just as the former restaurant was housed in a funky 1930s strip center, the new eatery takes its cue from the former.

Large plate glass windows facing San Pedro frame an amazing urban landscape of street life and night life in full view. Inside, the ceilings are high with exposed white-washed beams and neutral walls offer a gallery-like back drop for large floral paintings in eye-popping colors by Sara Eyestone. A diverse selection of incredible antiques, rummage finds and crystal wine glasses lined up for service on a custom built bar mix comfortably in the soothing setting.

Stefania’s grandson, Michael Squilla, plays fine guitar with his jazz ensemble, A Shade of Jade. The jazz rhythms still fill the air where this lady reigns. And her daughter, Michelle, keeps things together when mom is taking care of business at Delores Del Rio on the River Walk, where she was recently interviewed by Rachel Ray.

It’s not surprising that the TV food maven chose Stefania’s. We began with an array of fresh-baked breads spread with butter, minced garlic and Parmigiano-Reggiano. A delicate and fresh tomato with mozzarella and basil was the salad choice that followed.

Next came the famous ciappino, served bouillabaisse-style that was near perfection. Shrimp, calamari, mussels, clams and fresh fish are prepared in a red wine reduction with a tomato base that is seasoned with bay leaf and oregano and cooked with onions and bell pepper. It is for that dish alone that I would dine daily with Stefania.

But there are other dishes to try. Many are from the Nona’s menu. “It’s almost the same menu,” says Baldesarelli. Thank goodness the eggplant parmesan is there. And it is joined by a plentitude of pastas, seafood dishes, veal selections and even an Italian rib eye steak stuffed with roasted garlic, served with green onions, roasted poblano pepper and pasta.

Lunch features salads, sandwiches (my favorite is the Portobello mushroom) and eight entrees including capellini and fettuccini Alfredo in cream sauce with shrimp.

Stefania’s Italian Country is located at 2322 San Pedro Ave. and is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Saturday from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. For reservations, private party information and catering, call 733-6633.