Photo by Richard Johnston

Thumb through a high-end foodie magazine and you’ll likely see a reference to Argentinean cooking. With savory staples like empanadas, warm pizzas and delicious grilled meats, it’s no wonder that every food writer wants to talk about the cuisine. To taste it, however, there’s no need to hop the overnight flight to Buenos Aires. Gago’s, a traditional Argentine parrilla and pasta eatery, opened for business in September on Interstate 10 on the grounds of the Blue Hills Inn & Spa.

“My husband, Carlos, is from Argentina ,” says Lucy Gago, the restaurant’s co-owner. and we wanted to create a traditional parrilla restaurant right here in San Antonio, complete with all of the typical dishes asado, beef steak, suckling lamb and goat as well as brochettes, or what is called shish kabob here in the states.”

“We are unique in San Antonio,” says Carlos. “There is no spicy [Tex-Mex] here. And, unlike some places that claim to be real Argentine restaurants in America, we don’t just put some meat on a plate with chimichurri sauce. No, no. We are always making fresh, real food like in my country. That’s why you see the food being cooked on the metal crosses over the flame.”

For those of us raised on good ol’ barbecue, the notion of a parrilla is both familiar and exotic. Slabs of various meats are cooked over an open pit and acquire a distinctive, earthy flavor. It’s worth noting that in Argentine culture, the asador, or grill attendant, is a respectable occupation. Thus, traditionally the meat is cooked in full view of diners rather than prepared in a separate kitchen.

At Gago’s, the pit is situated in the ground near the entrance, creating a rustic ambiance that helps obscure the nearby interstate’s incessant hum. The aroma is intoxicating. Although a vegetarian could make do with a dish of pasta, some provoleta (grilled provolone) or a stone-baked pizza testaments all to the influence of Italian immigrants on Argentina’s culinary history, Gago’s is designed with the carnivore in mind. And while federal regulations prevent the importation of Argentina’s world-renowned, grass-fed beef, the staff works with the best cuts on offer stateside.

“All of our meat, with the obvious exception of the pork, is kosher,” says Lucy. “And our beef is Certified Black Angus.”

Even in the afternoon, hours before customers arrive, Gago’s interior is cozy and inviting. The bar is intimate and transitions guests into the dining area, which is decorated in shades of blue and white. In homage to another Argentine cultural contribution, a selection of quality leather goods is on offer, including riding boots, jackets, bags and even a pair of ladies’ red leather tango shoes.

In short, one cannot leave Gago’s without feeling as if you’ve been on an adventure. If you care to finish your meal as they do in Buenos Aires, consider quaffing a yerba mate, a strong, grassy-tasting brew made by soaking a type of South American holly leaf in hot water. It’s an acquired taste but worth sampling in order to make one’s meal truly authentic. For those who prefer to finish on a sweeter note, a modest selection of desserts, includes a tres leches-style cake, flan and alfajores, a rich, caramel-filled cookie.

Hoping to expand their business into weekday lunchtime, the owners will soon launch a small sandwich shop across the parking lot.

The main restaurant will remain open for dinner, Wednesday through Saturday evenings and Sunday afternoons. Because the dining area is small, reservations are suggested. In keeping with the Argentine love of family, children are welcome. But don’t come expecting fast food. That isn’t the Gago’s way.

“We want people to come here, to slow down, to enjoy this different way of dining,” says Carlos. “It’s common for people to come here and stay three, four or five hours, just as one would in Buenos Aires. … That’s something new for Americans, but it’s so much more pleasurable that way, to take your time. We never, ever rush. And I always say that we open at 5 p.m., but we stay until the last customer says ‘good-bye.’”

Gago’s
21455 IH-10 West
San Antonio, Texas
(210) 698-2160

5-10 pm Wednesday through Saturday; 12-4 p.m. Sunday

Appetizers $3.99-8.99

Entrees $9.99-24.99

Full Bar