Shopping and sightseeing in San Miguel gives us new appreciation of the creative arts and crafts of Mexico. Courtesy photos

Mexico is a land of treasures where it is possible to shop all day and still never see all of the wonderful, creative products available.

On a recent trip to the state of Guanajuato, Mexico, the shopping “madness” swept over me as I peered into the merchants’ open doors along the drive into town. I couldn’t wait to go shopping! And before the trip was over, I had made a dent in the local economy, as well as my checkbook.

In San Miguel de Allende, we stayed at the charming Casa Luna Quebrada. Casa Luna’s appeal is immediate as you pass from the street into a lantern-lit passageway that opens into a serene patio complete with a fountain. At check-in, the management immediately puts guests on the honor system for drinks and explains the breakfast hours. (No other meals are served.)

The rooms are decorated with distinctive local Mexican handicrafts and have romantic fireplaces and large bathrooms with deep, luxurious tubs. Our rooms were upstairs overlooking the attractive courtyard; most of the accommodations lie on different levels, separated from one another by narrow staircases that are lit with pierced tin luminarias. The peaceful refuge of Casa Luna stands behind two monumental wooden doors that open directly to the street.

Shopping began almost immediately. One member of our group wanted to buy a large lantern for her hallway; another wanted typical Mexican clothing and furniture. I was looking for anything unusual, having made numerous trips across the border. We each found something to take home, but the lanterns were so plentiful and unusual that it was impossible to make a decision. Next trip!

Walking in San Miguel can be treacherous. The charming colonial streets are paved with large cobblestones that have borne the weight of pedestrians and vehicles for many years. Sidewalks are uneven and narrow and many streets are steep, so that you get plenty of exercise! There were times that I thought I must be in San Francisco, not Mexico. But to see the sights and explore the shops, you must walk everywhere.

There is something for everyone in the shops and many goods are inexpensive. But there are also interior design shops with very expensive, fine things -- we saw an 18th-century traveling desk inlaid with detailed marquetry that cost $15,000 and several modern tables and chairs that cost thousands.

After several days of retail madness, we decided to do some sightseeing as a balance and drove several kilometers out of town to visit Atotonilco, a small settlement where indigenous Mexicans worshipped before the Spanish invasion.

During the Colonial period, an aristocratic Spanish priest, Luis Felipe Neri da Alfaro, financed the construction of a beautiful church, the Santuario de Atotonilco. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the church complex was elaborately frescoed in the Eighteenth Century. Several small chapels, a few with real silver and gold gilding, surround the main nave and are astonishing for the variety of their detail ranging from stucco to wood carving.

There is something for everyone in the shops and many goods are inexpensive.

We also visited the colonial town of Guanajuato, another UNESCO World Heritage site and the capitol of the state. Guanajuato reached its zenith during the silver mining boom between the 16th to 18th Centuries and some silver is still mined there today.

The first thing you see when descending into the town from the high mountains surrounding is a huge statue of El Papila, a local hero during the War for Independence. The view from this site is impressive … the homes of Guanajuato are spread out before you like brightly colored flowers across a hillside. The vibrant colors of the terraced houses reminded me of houses I saw in Naples on the steep shores of the Mediterranean.

Then it was on to the town proper where the colonial and baroque buildings, original cobblestone streets, and churches and museums are in abundance. This town is an architectural masterpiece, best seen by walking.

We walked for several miles, up and down the steep streets, taking in the beauty of the town, past the Teatro Juarez, an elegant, Art Nouveau-style opera house where performances still take place today, past the city’s main basilica, the 17th-century Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato whose wooden image of the saint is thought to be the oldest piece of Christian art in Mexico, weaving in-and-out of picturesque small city squares where ladies sell fresh flowers. We visited the Museo de Diego Rivera, the artist’s childhood home where a small collection of his works is displayed.

Nearby, the flourishing University of Guanajuato bustles with students, and the Cervantes Museum exhibits a statue of the writer in the square in front of the building. The city’s longstanding Cervantino Festival, a two-week event each October, features performing artists from around the world. We did not visit the Mummy Museum, but it is a favorite of tourists despite its macabre display of preserved bodies.

After our long walk, we returned to the main square to visit a candy shop where we purchased cajetas de Celaya (caramel candies), charamuscas (sugar cane treats) las cocadas (coconut candies), and other marvelous and typically Mexican sweets.

As we left Guanajuato, in the distance from the highway, we saw the huge Sanctuario a Christo Rey perched on top of a mountain. The Christ statue with its outstretched arms and angels at his feet welcomes pilgrims and visitors alike and is reminiscent of a similar statue overlooking Rio de Janiero.

Returning to San Miguel, we enjoyed Thanksgiving lunch at a private hacienda with a great view of the nearby hills. People are very hospitable in this city. The lunch featured two turkeys: one, American style and one stuffed with tamales, plus quantities of delicious food and Mexican beer, making it a day to be thankful for.

Many of the guests at the luncheon were from around the world and had never been to Mexico before. Everything was new to them. This made us realize how lucky we are to be living in Texas. We Texans are really part Mexican …we appreciate their customs, language and food as our own.

The flourishing University of Guanajuato bustles with students.

A visitor longs to bring it all home, but can’t quite fit the pottery and glass items in his bag. The art galleries were numerous and thriving and at Fabrica la Aurora on the outskirts of the city, we visited an abandoned textile mill that had been restored to house galleries, shops, a wine bar and a casual restaurant for lunch. This was definitely worth the visit!

In the center of town, we enjoyed sitting under the trees in front of the pink Gothic Parroquia church on the main square, El Jardin. One of San Miguel’s landmarks, the Parroquia was built in 1683 and features a sculpture of Ignacio Allende, namesake of the city and a hero in the Mexican Independence movement on the main alter. Nearby, graceful arcades lit by wrought iron lanterns with a European feel, are filled with vendors showing their wares–everything from handmade wreaths to jewelry, candy and dolls.

Sunday in Mexico is always a celebratory day when after Mass, families wander through the Jardin buying corn on a stick, cotton candy and all kinds of treats sold at pushcarts shaded by bright-colored umbrellas. Shops are open and that particular Sunday, a parade with a Mexican band and decorated floats featuring new communicants costumed as the holy family passed noisily around the Parroquia and up and down the streets around the Jardin.

The weather while we there was chillier than usual for fall and we soon discovered that San Miguel’s hotels and homes don’t burn wood and use only gas in the fireplaces. Wood is a prized commodity and we heard that residents were forbidden to cut down trees for this purpose. We also noted the prevalence of expatriates from around the world who make up about 40 percent of the population in San Miguel. People come to this town and fall in love with the location and the ambiance.

Sadly, it was finally it was time to say adios to the Guanajuato area and its wonderful treasures. But we shall return to Mexico in the near future.